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Marshal Cohen, the chief analyst of the NPD Group, which researches trends in the fashion industry, noted that far more men now feel free to indulge an interest in style. In only 25 percent of all men's apparel was bought by men, he said; 75 percent was bought by women for men. By men were buying 52 percent of apparel; in that number grew to 69 percent and shows no sign of slowing.

View all New York Times newsletters. The result is a full-blown category of men's wear that draws equally from skateboard and surf culture, the preppy canon and the runways of Prada and Marc Jacobs, hot brands like James Perse, Rogan, Rogues Gallery, Trovata, Energie, Original Penguin, Le Tigre and Libertine.

Vonderheide said, referring to, among others, Modern Amusement, a mainstay of Urban Outfitters; Wash; and the sexy Da'mage line of denim. He does not use the word metrosexual -- "that horrible term" -- because he thinks it marginalizes fashionable men by implying that there is something unusual or unmanly about liking clothes. White of Cosmopolitan said that her teenage son and her husband, who used to shop with her, have been going out stag and bagging some interesting choices.

He never would have been shopping for that, but the salesguy whipped it out, and Overall she and her readers approve of the trend, but there is a limit. Some gay men are of like mind. As they shift their athletic interest from the gym to sports or become parents and find it hard to work out as often, the classic gay gym body is becoming just one of several options.

The term "Chelsea boy," denoting a bronzed, buffed, waxed gay ideal, has even acquired a pejorative tint. Lemon suggested that for a generation that grew up watching "The Real World" on MTV, in which the gay and lesbian characters were no more or less flamboyant in dress or persona than their straight counterparts, being gay carries neither the stigma nor the specialness it once did. That, he said, has also altered the landscape of men's style. That show is a great example of normalization and dressing to reflect sexuality.

Pask agreed that many gay men, younger ones especially, don't want to feel, or look, that different. We got it; they don't need it. Of course there are still places that gay men will go that straight men will not. The Speedo swimsuit is still off limits to even the most vain heterosexual American men, as is knowing the words to Kylie Minogue's latest hit single. And Alice Eisenberg, who works the door at several New York gay bars, said her supersensitive gaydar remains infallible. Last weekend she surprised onlookers when she stopped a gay-vague guy, complete with a fedora, in line at the Boys Room, an East Village bar, asking him, "You know this is a gay bar, right?

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